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- This recipe is best made using a stand mixer, which helps create a more uniform dough. Yeast likes to be worked hard and the constant motion of the mixer leads to more consistent results.
- If you don't like fruit in your buns, substitute in something else, like chocolate or even nuts, chopped small and keeping the amount the same as what was originally called for. The same goes for the peel, which can be left out or replaced with orange zest.
- Leave it out for an alcohol-free version. It could also be replaced with another warming spirit, like brandy or whisky.
- You'll need a piping bag to pipe the crosses. If you don't have one, a plastic zip lock bag, sealed and with one of the corners snipped off, will work fine.
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- Put the milk in a small saucepan. Heat over medium-low until it is lukewarm in temperature, a few minutes. The milk should be body temperature rather than scalding or cold. Pour it into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, then tip in the flour, sugar, yeast, spices, salt and eggs.
- Mix on low until shaggy and rough, then turn the speed to medium-high. Continue to knead for another four minutes, until a well combined, firm dough ball has formed.
- Add in the butter, a tablespoon at a time, until it is all used up, then tip in the sultanas and peel. Raise the speed again and knead until the dough is smooth and velvety, six more minutes.
- Scrape into a lightly greased bowl and cover with cling film. Leave to rise in a warm place until doubled in size, about 1 hour.
- Once risen, give the dough a light punch to deflate it. At this point, you can either proceed with the recipe as directed, or re-cover and transfer it to the refrigerator to chill overnight, for use the next morning.
- Scrape the dough out and onto a lightly floured work surface then divide it into 12 even-sized portions. To form a tight bun, fold the edges of the dough into the centre before rolling it gently, see the video for reference. If you have a scale, they should weigh about 95 grams each or fit into the cup of your hand.
- Arrange into a large baking dish, positioning together but not touching, then loosely sheath the top with cling film. Again, leave to rise for 30 minutes, or an hour if using chilled dough.
- Meanwhile, position a rack in the middle of the oven. Preheat the oven to 180°C.
- To make the crosses, whisk together the flour and water to form a smooth paste, then scrape it into a piping bag. It's fine to add a bit more water to the paste if it's too stiff, half a tablespoon at a time as needed. The paste should be smooth and thick, but not so thick that it's unable to be piped or too thin that it spreads a lot.
- Use a pastry brush to coat the buns in a bit of egg wash, then snip the tip off the bag, and pipe a cross over the top of each.
- Bake for about 25 minutes, until golden brown. Make sure to rotate them halfway through, for even colouring.
- While the buns are baking, put the sugar, water, juice, peel, quill, cloves, star anise and rum (if using) in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Heat, stirring often, until the sugar has dissolved. Let it come to a simmer and cook out for a minute, then remove and set aside.
- When the buns are done, remove from the oven and transfer onto a wire rack. Immediately brush the glaze over them, until glistening. Serve soon after. They're best eaten warm on the day of making, but are fine to be kept for about two days after and reheated.